EMF Meters for TI Use
Radio Frequencies and Electromatic Fields can be weaponized for use against ANYONE. With the advent of 5G and the Internet of (smart) Things, almost EVERYONE should worry about RF/EMF effects. THIS MEANS YOU!
by H. Michael Sweeney proparanoid.wordpress.com Facebook proparanoid.net
Dateline, Oct 30, 2020, from an undisclosed location not too far from wrong. copyright © 2020, all rights reserved. Permission to repost hereby granted provided entire post with all links in tact, including this notice and byline, are included. Quote freely, links requested. Please comment any such repost or quote link to original posting.
Hard rocks and harder places…
This is an extremely broad topic which cannot be well discussed here, beyond some basic advice. The problem for TIs is uniquely different from common uses of Technical Security Countermeasures (TSCM) equipment and services. So one problem right off the bat is obtaining useful help (good luck with that). This leads to a do-it-yourself (DIY) alternative by use of low-cost EMF meters, and possibly shielding or other tactical solutions. As result, most pros are ex mil-intel types, which creates a trust barrier with most of the TI community.
Not that it matters: a TI simply cannot afford the cost of their services. Professional TSCM equipment is extremely expensive (a pro might have a million dollars invested) and extremely complex, and requires a lot of experience and the kind of training offered in the military and intelligence communities. So, between trust and cost, and unique needs, a TIs find themselves between a proverbial rock, and hard place, a DIY nightmare. That’s not all.
That help issue trickles down the food chain to the makers and sellers of lower cost solutions, such as EMF meters, which are little brothers to more sophisticated and costly signal analyzers used by pros. Such firms do not and will not support DIY use of their products for TI related needs, and indeed, many pros will not offer their services, either because they fear running afoul with some government operation — or they don’t believe in the whole targeting notion and presume the client mentally ill.
It is possible to hire a PI or some individual who’s gone into business using low cost gear to do ‘mini’ TSCM sweeps, some of whom are aware of and will cater to TI needs, but many of these are charlatans, especially true in those who specialize in select TI issues, such as ‘finding implants.’ Be wary of anyone charging for implant detection using small EMF meters, esp. if charging by the implant found: with many meters, it is possible to cause a false read by simply moving a finger of the hand holding the device toward the front of the meter… for another $50 ‘find.’ “Would you like me to continue searching?”
It would therefore be better for the TI to do their own searches, though even with a decent EMF meter, the odds of finding an implant are extremely nil. EMF meters detect Radio Frequency (RF) and Electro-Magnetic Fields (EMF), which are radiated energy/field readings not given off by implants, as a rule. Most implants receive such signals, and those that transmit them tend to do so by remote command. Even then, it is very briefly, rather than being ‘on’ all the time — defying meter detection.
While there may be exceptions, the type of signal they use is likely to be lost amid the ambient signals present already (i.e., wifi, broadcast radio/TV, cellular, AC wiring, power
lines, amplifiers, etc.). An EMF meter displays the sum total of all such data, and can only identify a source by virtue of increasing in signal strength as it nears the signal source. An implant signal is rather weak. But, implants aside, there are other valuable uses for such a meter, if you have a decent one.
Choosing an EMF meter
First, know that cell phone apps that offer EMF readings are not reading the right kind of EMF. They are not reading any signal which is involved with targeting, but instead, the Earth’s own magnetic field, using sensors in the phone designed for game play to know changes in the phones relative position to prior positions (i.e., steering a car in a driving/racing game). For like cause, avoid ‘Natural’ EMF meters or EMF meters that do not include RF measurement, as they are also reading the Earth, only.
So what you really want is an actual RF/EMF meter. And not just any such meter, but one which is directional in nature when reading RF, and not omnidirectional. AC Magnetic Field readings will be omnidirectional, in virtually any meter, but if the RF sensing is directional, that will not impede usefulness of omnidirectional EMF readings. RF, on the other hand, is barely useful if only omnidirectional. That said, some omnidirectional meters will allow you to install and optional directional antenna… for added cost. One way or another, you want directional.
The type of antenna system described by the maker in specifications or manuals won’t necessarily tell you if it is omnidirectional or directional, they prefer a technical description of the physical antenna design (engineer speak). Omnidirectional (least useful for a TI) are typically described as
ISOTROPIC or TRIAXIAL ( 3– AXIS), and are often visually discernible by a large ball or spherical object at their top. Sometimes it is internal and, therefore, smaller and unseen. That limits the sensitivity, compared to an external. Directional RF meters might have no antenna, a rod antenna (like old brick cell phones), a ‘wand’ at the end of a cable, or a triangular antenna (very useful with distant sources). So, any other technical description other than Isotropic or Triaxial, is good.
My base-line low-cost meter of choice is the TriField TF-2, which I actually used to sell with some value-added features for TI use. That included a user manuals I wrote for such use for the Trifield, and the Micro Alert audible meter (a good companion product). These manuals, along with a copy of this post and many others, are part of my TI Helps Kit available on request to proparanoidgroup at gmail com. I used to charge $10 for the manuals, but the Kit is free, though I do encourage a donation to the Free Will Society to aid severely impacted stalking victims (freewillsociety.wordpress.com) via PayPal to the above email addy.
I compare all other meters to the TriField before considering them desirable, or worth the price for TI needs. It is a directional RF with omnidirectional EMF readings in a simple to use and reliable product at a low cost. You can buy direct (trifleld.com) or find it online from many resellers. Experts in the meter reseller and RF/EMF consulting field also use it as a standard for comparisons, and that is telling. In fact, currently, one such pro who advocates for the TriField is EMF Academy, a valuable resource for information to anyone interested in issues revolving around the topic.
More importantly, they have a newsletter you can subscribe to, and associated with that, is a monthly drawing for one of three TriField meters. If you just visit their site and poke around looking at articles on things like EMF paint and shielded clothing, a popup will offer you the ability to subscribe and enter to win one of the meters. Some of their more expensive and exotic solutions I am currently testing, and will likely write an update report within a month: be sure to FOLLOW my blog so you get a notice. While you do that, also click the LIKE button and leave a comment, if you wish — all at that bottom of each blog post.
There are other features to look for in a meter which could be handy to a TI. An audible tone option, for working in the dark or allowing you to focus on what you are scanning (TF-2). Peak reading indicator and Avg signal strength (TF-2) instead of just a needle or light bar reading that is bouncing around enough to make such things difficult. It would be nice to have the ability to add a special antenna, such as (specifically) a dipole. This may be a round tube, or a flat, triangular antenna for very precise targeted distance source location (useful for DEW sources, typically hundreds to thousands of feet, or even miles away). Some offer a pistol grip or a protective case. These things are nice to have, but not usually critical, if you are willing to walk a bit more to effect the same results.
But the important feature is antenna, and frequency range. Most meters are intended only for cellular and wi-fi operating ranges, which stop (well before 5G) at below 3.5 GHz. One insidious risk of 5G compared to 4G and the current wifi standards, is that it operates at such a high frequency, citizens won’t be able to afford meters designed to check for safety. They may operate at up to 6 GHz. As it happens, DEW weapons are likely operating in similar ‘beyond hope’ ranges. My $12K meter setup can still only see to 12GHz, and some DEW will be above 50 or 60 GHz.
And, it is true that EEG entrainment (mood, sleep control, thought interference), which many TIs call remote neural monitoring (a misnomer), operates at frequencies well below any low-cost meter on the market, unless you are looking at something like my $12K rig… which is exactly why I have it. We are talking human brain operating frequencies, at and below 30Hz. Your ears cannot hear below 30Hz, because if they could, it would confuse your brain, and therefore, that’s also why audio equipment tends to stop at that low end, as well.
Hold the meter level, flat in your hand, so you are looking down to see the reading. If you aim it upward, you are going to flood the meter with radio waves reflecting off the ionosphere, and will always get incorrectly high readings. You wouldn’t even be able to sense a satellite signal, that way; such meters are not designed for anything but environment readings or very near or high-outpt sources. Also, many meters without external antenna will give similar false readings if your hand is touching the ‘head’ or ‘business end’ of the meter, so hold it by the rear half, only. When taking a reading, your purpose may vary, but generally, you are looking for a ‘hot’ or higher-than-average reading among the ambient collective.
Before actually taking readings, consider perp strategies. They likely have excellent surveillance and will know when you are using a meter. It is very likely that they would therefore simply shut down, making any sweeps pointless. This is why a pro TSCM sweep is typically conducted unannounced, anonymously, and with a degree of stealth and cunning. Ideally, it would be best if you arranged for a companion to do the sweeps with as little fanfare or obvious effort, as possible.
This brings in additional problematic factors, such as trust and willingness to help in what is a lengthy and complex set of tedious steps. Or, you might get lucky and find the enemy’s gear is simply left running while they take a nap. For most TI’s, though, it can mean many attempts before being able to acquire useful information from the meter. Failure to find clues of targeting does not mean they never target, does not mean the meter is defective, does not mean you are doing something wrong… it just means that was not likely the right opportunity.
And yet, of course, the other possibilities may yet be true, in the end. While a negative is not necessarily proof of a negative, a positive is its own proof. Even so… you will want multiple positives over time if to have useful evidence. That will also require good documentation, such as video and verbal announcements of what you are doing and seeing, and where the meter is pointing. Have a witness, too. More to follow.
Slowly sweep back and forth, left to right, looking for possible reading jumps or dangerously high readings (hot spots). When you first start, you won’t likely know what is dangerous, or not. There are good online resources to help with that, but they can sometimes seem way too technical, and measurement increments of your meter may not match the measurement increments of a given site. That can result in confusion or misinterpretation, and force some math you might wish to avoid. Here are several sites you can review and compare against your meter, hopefully finding one more directly useful, without involving conversion factors. There are many others out there, and what constitutes unsafe levels is kind of a moving target in constant redefinition, and there is a difference in European, American, and Asian standards, the U.S. being the most lax (natch) of the three.
If you find a hot spot, stop and watch for several seconds to see if it holds relatively steady or was just a random spike. Generally, you will want to repeat scans in each of the meter’s modes of operation (i.e., the TriField has three: AC Magnetic, AC Electric, and RF/Microwave). If you are logging results for legal or comparative purposes, give it at least five seconds and note the reading(s), avg, and peak. If you’ve made an entry, be sure to note the values for each meter setting at that same position/angle. That added information could prove useful at some point.
Hot spots may show up either as a gradual rise and fall as you sweep, or a sudden spike. It may be brief, or hold steady. Brief spikes are not typically useful, but one which holds or is above safe limits is very useful. Note if gradual or sudden, and especially note if it was synchronous with any impact on you or your environment. You will also want to get a compass heading (there are cell phone apps for that, relying on natural EMF, as it happens).
If outside, and you are in something like a depression or valley, or a where there are tall buildings, you may wish to then tip the meter a bit to scan lower and higher in angle, such that you avoid looking directly into the sky (stay below the visual horizon, where rooftops may so redefine it), looking for further increases which may help identify a specific source location of the signal (a cell phone ‘bubble level’ app with off-level degree readouts might help with your notes, as well). If it is a building you are aiming at, try to estimate the floor, and note that. You may want a strong pair of binoculars, a rifle scope, or other strong lens to try to see what is at the suspect location. And it is suspect, only. A hot spot, even if very hot, is not alone a proof of a targeting source… but only reveals a possible suspect location.
If we are talking about finding a surveillance or other targeting device planted somewhere within your location with the meter, there is a similar concern, should you find something. Depending on the device purpose (which you may not be able to discern), and tactical matters dictated by your targeting situation (which may not be obvious), it may be to your advantage to leave it in place. You may wish to contact me (I am interested) via public library computer.
Or, use your best judgment, if worried it might should be removed immediately. Video document its removal and take it directly to a bank and get a safety deposit box to put it in… or take it to a local professional for analysis, per the advice in the next paragraph. Send me still images, in place, and after removal, if removed. Safety first, if it involves AC electrical power, and if it is in a large sealed box, don’t try to open it… such are often booby-trapped to destroy the evidence; very scary fireworks which may require the Fire Department, as it once did in a case I was investigating.
Now, about suspects, we need a warning: If you do establish a suspect, DO NOT confront individuals which you might be able to identify. Instead, try to learn as much about them or the property as possible, and add it to your notes. You should then contact me, or an appropriate professional, such as a private investigator, lawyer, or Agency. I don’t recommend Police, but if you have good readings and symptoms verified by a Doctor as not due a health issue, you might want to contact the FCC or your State’s Environmental Protection Agency, or perhaps your local County Extension Office Agent. Some larger cities may have bio-home or bio-environmental engineers or similar, who could be very good resources, if available. If there is any significant find or action taking, I would like to hear from you, and may be able to suggest ‘next step(s)’ to consider.
To find a surveillance or targeting device in a structure (the TI’s ‘space’) requires comparing readings well away from a suspect source to readings within an inch of it, looking for a large increase (signal strength falls off at the square of the distance). Scan low, scan high, and all around. You will want to be as physically close to surfaces as you can get, without touching, preferably (no harm, no foul, if you do). Every object and surface should be treated as a potential suspect to be tested.
One should establish ‘normal’ levels in a non TI environment (a test control space) similar to the TI’s space, and compare by taking readings at room center or well away from major RF sources (i.e., wifi, computers, tvs, radios, ovens, etc.). It should be a similar sized and designed space in the same neighborhood, between three and six homes away (arranging this can be daunting, if you do not know anyone who fits the bill, who would be willing to participate — try requests based on your own concerns in the neighborhood about high 5G signals, until you find someone who worries about 5G).
This is done in several sets of readings, each — one with those RF sources operating, and one with them turned off, and one with the Mains turned off (no AC power to the space). If subject to significant electronic attacks which can be physically felt or sensed, the TI’s space reading should additionally be undertaken as sets during both times of no sensed attack, and during an attack (which may prove difficult, if under surveillance — the perps may elect to cease the attack once you set up for the readings… which might buy you some peace.) You should also take readings at the power company meter at both spaces at a time of day when major appliances are not in use, and note how fast the meter is changing, and in the TI space, take an additional reading when the mains are turned off.
Finally, you will want to walk around the space on the outside taking reading pointing away from the center of the space, looking for hot spots. Directional is King, here.
To test for bio implants in a person or a tracking device on a vehicle, the best place will be in the country, away from any nearby potential sources for such signals… such that ambient broadcasts and distant cell towers are about all that’s being read. All cell phones and the like should be turned off. Don’t try to find an implant on yourself, have someone else take the readings. Every inch of the body should be scanned, and I suggest wearing a simple nightgown, PJs, or a bathing suit. Feet wide apart, arms held out to the sides. Be willing to get fairly personal. One then verifies by going on past the body in the same direction to insure the reading is dropping, again.
If a vehicle, pop the hood and trunk and doors to scan the interior areas, it being OK to lean into and ‘look about’ with the meter, just trying not to aim directly at the sky. Don’t forget under the seats, fender wells over the tires. It would be nice if you could put the vehicle on jack stands so you could safely get underneath it (where aiming upwards at the undercarriage will be fine). Jacking each corner up as if changing a tire is much more work… but avoid actually going under the car with any more than your arm. You will want three sets of tests, one with the engine running (in Park or Neutral, Emergency Brake set), one with battery connected and the key in the accessory setting, and one with the battery disconnected. That will tell you if any suspect readings are from something drawing power off of the car, or if it is battery operated (which means something bigger, and easier to find in a visual search). So, be sure you have the needed tools.
What do results tell you?
- Where readings are higher during an attack, DEW is all but confirmed, and additional steps (T1, at document end) will be needed. Where they are not, and the attack was sensed, the sensed effects are more likely to be a health issue (all TI symptoms are carefully designed to mimic health issues), and you should seek medical advice, describing only the symptoms, not TI concerns. Get a second opinion using a random Doctor. If no high readings and no sensed attack, try again… and again;
- where readings are higher in the TI space with all power off, than in the control space in like status, it indicates battery operated surveillance is likely, take steps (T2). If the same, it implies that any perp equipment present is drawing power from the house by any number of means, use step (T3). NOTE: it is certainly possible for both to be true;
- where readings are higher when RF/EMF equipment is turned on in the TI space compared to the control space, it implies that the equipment operating is either defective, or perhaps weaponized against you in some manner, take steps (T4); If the same, it implies them safe;
- where readings are higher when the equipment is turned off than in the control space, and the first part of item (2, above) is false, it implies the AC power system has been weaponized, take step (T5);
- where power meter readings are higher in the TI space than the control space, it implies the Meter is relaying a lot of data from perp devices… just good to know, as the other tests will address needed steps. If not different, it implies the meter is not a Smart Meter, or the meter has not been weaponized to relay data. Relay of perp data does not imply the power company is the recipient or participant, though it is always possible;
- where power meter continues to draw power with the mains turned off in the TI space, it means there is the possibility the perps are drawing power off for their devices directly from within the mains junction box (circuit breaker box), and may include electrification of the ground to create high EMF readings in the home, and likely, the embedding of targeting signals within the AC wiring. Take step (T5).
T1 (DEW test). You have had positive space readings within the structure and they point to DEW presence. You now need to do external readings at both spaces by walking around the building site and taking reading pointing directly away from the center of the building or room of concern (don’t sweep left to right — you walking in a hypothetical arc about the center point, instead).
Compare these to the interior readings at the same compass heading. If there is no agreement, the source is likely inside the structure: do a 180 and sweep to confirm, directly along the outer wall surfacwes. If they do agree, compare the average signal strength. If it is a notably higher, then the source is relatively close, and in theory, if there was nothing in the way, and the source was left operating, you could walk toward it until you found it… such as a neighbor’s home. If it is not exactly higher, then it is much further away, and you may want a bicycle or car to chase it down.
T2 (Batteries). Battery operated devices are bigger, and easier to find because they will require a nook or cranny. Do a visual search for anything that is unusual or foreign. Do not remove it. Video the discovery with audio description. It may require some disassembly of door panels, carpeting, dash components, etc., which may mean professional help or tools, in which case, you must be present and video. Contact me with the circumstance and send me still images of the object, that I may suggest the next steps. Do this covertly, such as by use of a public library computer.
T3 (No Battery). That means it is either hidden within an appliance (i.e., TV, stereo, blender) that is always plugged in, or it is wired somehow directly off of an AC power line, perhaps in wall or atic, under floorboards or behind baseboards. If the meter is pointing towards any such appliances. Unplug those items and move them aside, and take readings, again. If the readings fail to match, plug them back in elsewhere, and read again at the new position. If they again match, they need to be dismantled, looking for anything that seems added. You may want to take it to a repair shop, if unhappy at the thought of DIY (some items have voltage capacitors which can cause severe electrical shock even if the item is unplugged). You have to worry about such items on the far side of the wall, as well, by the way.
If the appliances don’t change the readings when removed, or there were no appliances, then we worry about wiring in the walls, floorboard, and ceiling areas. Aim the meter at angles to see if there is any confirming change in readings. If low angles are hotter, you may need to pull the baseboards, wall power outlets, or get under the floor (i.e., basement ceiling area). If high, there may be ceiling molding to be removed, or you may need to worry about something upstairs or in the attic ((where you will be wanting to follow all the house wires, looking for a cut and splice with something dangling (perhaps another long wire to chase down) off of it)). Otherwise, we check light switch wall plates, picture frames, wall hangings, or window sashes, etc., as may be in the line of sight of the reading. Again, be mindful that walls have two sides. Watch out for fiberglass or asbestos insulation… you don’t want to be messing with that without serious protective clothing.
T5 (AC Power Compromised). Consider to contact a Home Bioengineer or a large Electrical Contractor who is capable of doing large-scale power system work (i.e., can contract to build sub stations and the like — which means they know more and have better tools than ‘an electrician’). Go directly to the Power Company if there is no such services in your area. The idea is to complain about dirty power and possibly high ground voltage (say nothing about targeting) and ask for a power quality survey. If they find anything wrong, they should be able to fix it or arrange for the power company to fix it. Simply going to the power company first may not be a great idea, if they have been compromised and are complicit.
See the document on Shielding which is also included with the Helps Kit, or request a copy.